Behind the scenes: the white wines of Cos d’Estournel.
Behind the scenes: the white wines of Cos d’Estournel.
The renaissance of white wines in the Médoc
The Médoc is often associated with its outstanding red wines, but white wines were once prominent as well. They only came to be overshadowed by red wines after industry crises and the 1855 classification, to the extent that the specifications for the Médoc designation of origin in the 1960s excluded white wines entirely. This held true until the recent creation of the Médoc Blanc designation. Cos d’Estournel anticipated this development with the launch of Cos d’Estournel Blanc in 2005, driven by a daring vision of crafting an exceptional white wine on lands celebrated for their extraordinary red wines.
The search for an outstanding terroir
It was Michel Reybier’s express desire to create a white wine at Cos d’Estournel, but this would require finding a terroir in the Médoc with optimal conditions for growing Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. “We found a unique terroir in a place called Goulée,” explains Dominique Arangoïts, technical director of Cos d’Estournel. “It is the white wine grown furthest north along the Gironde, and it benefits from the proximity of the estuary, which widens to 13 kilometers there, compared to 7 kilometers in Saint-Estèphe. This body of water, which is saltier because closer to the ocean, brings briny sea spray.”
Located on what was once an island, this vineyard of gravelly soil and deeper layers of clay and clay-limestone soils offers ideal conditions for maintaining freshness and tension. To optimize the quality of the first harvests, white wine varietals were grafted onto older Cabernet Sauvignon vines, using a challenging, costly technique. “This set us ahead twenty years in terms of maturity and quality,” marvels Dominique Arangoïts. Other plots in the northern Médoc have since been added to the vineyard:
A tailored approach to winemaking
Cos d’Estournel’s approach to crafting its white wines is exceedingly precise. Grapes are gently pressed in vertical presses like those used in the Champagne region, a rarity in the Médoc. “It allows us to obtain musts of great purity, reducing the need for clarification, the process by which we separate the clear must from sediment,” explains Dominique Arangoïts. Fermentation takes place in barrels, each of which is tended to individually before blending. As is the case for the red wines of Cos d’Estournel, blending is not subject to predetermined proportions, and the expression of the terroir takes precedence over the individual identities of the different varietals. “We never consider varietals when we are blending,” underscores Dominique Arangoïts. “We seek to make the best Cos possible and then we look afterwards.”
A unique signature, between freshness and minerality
The white wines of Cos d’Estournel are singular for their precision and finely honed character. Gaëtan Lacoste, head sommelier France at Michel Reybier Hospitality, evokes
Cos d’Estournel Blanc stands out for its understated complexity and cellaring potential. Created in 2018, Pagodes de Cos Blanc offers a more approachable interpretation of the terroir. “Thanks to its ancient Sémillon, the white wine of Cos offers great cellaring potential,” remarks Charles Thomas, director of sales at Cos d’Estournel, “while Pagodes de Cos Blanc is more immediate.” Dominique Arangoïts adds,
Wine connoisseurs in search of exceptional white wines
Despite their rarity, the appeal of the fine white wines of the Médoc continues to grow. According to Gaëtan Lacoste, “The emergence of white wines in the Médoc offers an alternative to the white wines of the Graves region; they are somewhat less ample and offer greater tension than those of its neighbor to the south.” Charles Thomas also perceives an evolution in consumer habits:
Cos d’Estournel Blanc and Pagodes de Cos Blanc are sought after by wine connoisseurs, mainly in mature markets: Europe, North America and Asia (Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore).
“Our white wines surprise and entice with their finesse,” concludes Charles Thomas.
